I've copied a comment I posted to a runner's podcast (Running with the pack) in response to one of the guy's consideration to doing his first triathlon. He's a strong swimmer and has been running for several years but has virtually no bike experience. Listening to him over the last few podcast episodes, it's easy to forget how many seemingly mindless details we accumulate over our experience in training and competing in triathlons. While this list is definitely not all inclusive, it does, I think, settle some of those novice concerns. At least, I know these are things that I was worried about way before I was concerned with disc wheels, aero water bottles and helmets, and the like.
If you're thinking of doing your first triathlon, or know someone who might be considering it, but has some questions, I hope this helps.
[Name removed],
You mentioned that you're doing your first sprint triathlon in July, which I want to congratulate you for setting that first date and welcome you to the weird world of triathlons! I don't mean to hijack your running podcast with so much tri stuff, but I'm a former dedicated runner turned triathlete and would love to encourage you to keep at it and to answer any questions you have.
To play a little devil's advocate here, though I mentioned doing a sprint before an olympic distance, if you have the goal of moving on to olympic distance at some point, there's no reason you can't shoot for a sprint earlier than July and set yourself up for an olympic soon after, perhaps even by July.
From the sound of it, your swimming and running won't be a problem, especially at the sprint distance, and the bike training will build quickly. The best advice I heard when I got into biking (6 weeks before my first sprint) was to just ride the thing as much as I could. My first ride was 15 minutes out and 15 minutes back and I thought I'd never build up to anything worth mentioning. But over the following 6 weeks, at about 2-3 rides a week, the 15 mile leg of my first sprint was taxing enough to make me feel like I had accomplished something, but it also didn't drain me for the rest of the race.
Another thing to consider is to look for an early season reverse (as opposed to the traditional swim-bike-run order) sprint in which you run first, then bike, and finish with the swim in a local pool if the weather is still cold, which I'm sure it is where you're at. These can be great races if you can find one local because they are typically smaller and more easy paced as far as the transition set up goes and gives you a chance to meet some other athletes. Also, it works great to get you used to the whole multisport thing while leaving you wanting more and giving you the confidence to go for the longer distance without making you wait till mid summer to get your first taste.
A few basics I remember searching for and wondering before my first race to pass along (you may already know these, but some are worth repeating):
-A good pair of tri shorts are one of the best investments you'll make, and don't be fooled into thinking you need a WHOLE lot of padding, I do all rides up to 50 miles in tri shorts and save the dedicated biking shorts for really long rides.
-When it comes to cycling shoes and clipless pedals - use what is most comfortable, if that means cycling in your running shoes, do it and just put straps on your pedals to secure your feet. If you really take to the shoes and pedals from the beginning-you're going to want them if you keep your bike past the first race so just make sure you get something good from the beginning so you don't have to upgrade when you feel "ready"
-If you decide to use shoes and clipless pedals, you'll see other triathletes who leave their shoes clipped into the pedals and put the shoes on once they get on the bike and get going - for your first race, just put the shoes on your feet IN the transition area and don't feel rushed or feel like you have to do what the other guys are doing - I tried it for my first race and it didn't save enough time to justify the akwardness of trying to put on shoes that are clipped into a moving bike while trying to pay attention - it's a skill that takes more than a few practice attempts.
-Don't worry about finding a tri specific top for your first event - there will be plenty of time to research all the sweet geek gear there is for triathlons once you get hooked - and personally, a one piece tri suit is the best option anyways. I find that I wear my tri shorts and standard bike jersey for most training rides and like the one piece sleeveless suit for races and longer rides - I got a tri top on sale and have worn it maybe once - they tend to ride up like girls' belly shirts and a one piece provides more security and comfort during all 3 legs of the race anyways.
-If you're used to using a gel or energy bar during events, the tri thing to do is to tape it to the top tube of your bike if its a gel and if it's a bar, take it out of the wrapper and simply mold it onto the top tube (I recommend this method as it requires the least amount of fiddling while on the bike, which is where I recommend taking in energy drinks and bars)
-When you start cycling, it's better for your form and efficiency to pedal an easier gear at a higher cadence (RPM) than a bigger (harder gear) at a slower cadence for any given speed. The higher RPM is not only more efficient but it more closely resembles your run turnover and will save your legs from draining before the run leg.
-I love my tri bike and wouldn't give it up for the world, but I also wish I had a better road bike than the 1980's panasonic my dad gave me from the garage which got me into cycling in the first place. My point is, you'll sacrifice very little if you get a road bike and put clip on aero bars rather than going straight for a tri specific bike. A road bike will be easier to learn shifting and you are actually more stable on a road bike than on a tri bike, which makes riding with groups easier and more comfortable. And in fact, some groups won't allow tri bikes or if they do, you can't ride in the aero position in a group anyways because your hands are not on the brake levers when you're in aero position. A road bike, on the other hand, incorporates the shifters INTO the brake levers so you have to move your hands very little- hence, safer when riding in a group. To operate, you simply squeeze the levers to brake and push the lever sideways to shift gears, kind of a two axis joystick type movement.
-Get a set of lace locks, speed laces, whichever brand your local running store carries. I only discovered them once I got into tri's, but use them for all running occasions now. They're elastic which allows you to take your shoes on and off without adjusting the tension setting and the lace tightness/pressure is always constant from one to another. No more tying shoes, just easy on, easy off
-A lot of triathletes cycle and run barefoot simply to save time in transition. If you're used to wearing socks, use socks for your first race and if you get to where you want to take it seriously then worry about training barefoot to get your feet used to it - it hurts if your feet aren't well adapted for it
-Shaving your legs - I did it at first because I figured all cyclists/triathletes do it. I've kept it up because (a) the first time I got road rash from a bike fall I was SOOO glad I didn't have to deal with hair in the midst of all the healing and scabbing and (b) my wife loves the cleanliness and smoothness, and, I have to admit, so do I - If you decide to do it though, do it WELL BEFORE your first race, as in weeks before. The Age Grouper Podcast has a great episode about one of the guys who decided to shave the night before his first triathlon, it's not recommended.
I guess the best way to summarize what I learned at my first tri is that you shouldn't worry about changing anything you already know how to do just because your doing a triathlon. Take your time in transitions and use what you are already using and comfortable with, don't worry, you'll get hooked soon enough and with more experience on the bike and with triathlon preparation you'll have a better perspective on what tri specific gear is most suitable for your taste and goals. Try too much on your first race and you'll likely miss out on how much fun it is doing the different disciplines and you'll be less likely to want to return.
But take your time, have fun with it and do what you already know how to do and you'll have a blast and then you'll have a real desire to go longer and faster and spend all kinds of time, money, and energy looking for fun gadgets and techniques to achieve your goals.
Looking back over this I realize I wrote a lot more than I anticipated, but I hope it helps. Please feel free to ask me whatever questions come to mind - I did my first tri (a reverse sprint) last Feb 2008 and did two Olympics (July and October 2008) along with the swim leg of a team relay tri in August and I'm still learning new stuff everyday.
I love listening to your podcast and want to thank you for the twitter answer, I added you today (PeanuttPursuit) and hope you continue to consider and stay excited for your first triathlon,
Something I forgot to mention is the race belt. Like the lock laces, it’s something I found only once I got into triathlon but would use for any running event outside of triathlon as well. I made mine out of a piece of climber’s webbing and a basic plastic clip from an old back pack, but you can buy a nice elastic one from your local shop for a few bucks anyways.
Nice thing about this, in addition to time savings in transition, is that you don’t have to deal with swimming with your number on but rather just attach your race number to the belt before the race and in transition, either before the bike if required, or after the bike if not required on the bike, and that’s it. No soggy race number and safety pins to worry about during the swim and if it’s not required for the big leg, no worrying about a flapping race number on the bike. This is also another place some triathletes put energy gels and such for easy access and some of the fancier belts include mini water bottles - like I said, there will be plenty of opportunity to scout out sweet gear when you get hooked, but a basic belt is highly advised. Hopefully that’s it for now,
Ryan
